Model Selection and Construction
L-R: Mel Lyne and Paul Dranfield help keep scoret at Vintage combat contest, Milton Keynes, England. (1997)
Mel Lyne with his nylon covered Super twister.
Tips for Vintage Combat Models.
by Mel Lyne
1. Most British Vintage Designs Have long inboard (L.H.) wings so they stay out in a gale. This makes them hinge badly in calm conditions. A 1/2"- 3/4" longer inboard wing is enough usually.
2. Build a strong L.E... If this survives crashes, the model will last. Also make tips strong for
surviveability. Cover the engine mount area with glass & CA to toughen it. The best covering is nylon & dope, but it's a lot of work. Solartex works well, mylar is tough. Diesel fuel has ether in it, which is a great solvent.
For this reason you have to do a really good job of fuel proofing, especially the motor area and outboard wing where the black exhaust residue winds up. Fuel seepage is a major concern, so use coloured dope or epoxy in critical areas.
3. The lighter models fly better. Try to build to 16oz. max. model plus engine. The smaller models should be lighter.
4. In the strong winds in England, the 1" flat airfoil is popular because it penetrates and is easier to control. But in calm conditions it doesn't turn very tight. if you want a tight turning model, use a 1-3/8" airfoil similar to the Voodoo.
5. Diesels vibrate a lot due to 27:1 compression. So build a really solid motor mount.
6. The flying wing designs tend to come out nose heavy with a PAW 15 BR , as it is heavier than the Olivers used in the '60s. Recessing the motor 1/4" into the leading edge helps. A heavy elevator is also good. Try 1/8" lite ply.